|
Articles
- - - - - - - - - -
- -
Armchair Travel
- - - - - - - - - - - -
From the Editors
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Directory
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Submissions
- - - - - - - - - - - -
About
- - - - - - - - - - - -
Contact
- - - - - - - - - - - -
|
Festival of Lanterns
by Erin K. Melvin
 As
twilight fades, candle-lit lanterns guide our way to the temple
and the flickering light casts a warm glow on our faces. Our pace
is set by the throaty chanting of monks. Swirls of frankincense
and sandalwood dance in the cool evening air.
We’re making our way to the main temple complex at Bulguk-sa to
celebrate Buddha’s Birthday, my favorite holiday in Korea. This
year, we are celebrating the 2547th year of Buddha’s
enlightenment.
Weeks before this special day monks begin to hang colorful
lanterns along the paths to the temples and within the temple
complex itself.
Then, on the Sunday before Buddha’s Birthday, a Lantern Parade is
held. Part of a tradition that dates back to the 6th century,
people carry paper lanterns, lit with candles, through town to the
local temple.
The first time I saw this, I bumped into it quite by accident. I
was on a local bus in a small town outside of Jiri-san National
Park. Along the dark country road there was a long line of women
dressed in Korea’s traditional clothing, hanbok, followed by
Buddhist nuns and monks, all carrying candle-lit lanterns. The
women were singing, the monks were chanting. It felt like I was on
a bus trip into the past.
The parade in Seoul brings out nearly 30,000 people. The streets
are packed with delighted viewers who watch as groups of hanbok
clad men, women and children march by with their spectacular paper
lanterns to the rhythm of Buddhist chants and traditional Korean
songs. Waves of serene monks and nuns pass by in their grey and
brown robes. And, as though they are magically floating above the
paraders, there are giant, electrically-lit, lanterns shaped as
fish, temple guardians, dragons, phoenixes and, of course, a baby
Buddha perched upon a white elephant.
 Why
lanterns? Apparently, by making lanterns in the shape of a lotus—a
design unique to Korea—one expresses the aspiration for wisdom as
the lotus represents the shedding of ignorance—growth from
muck—and the attainment of wisdom—blossoming in sunlight. The
candle inside symbolizes the attainment of wisdom by, very
literally, shedding light in the darkness.
On the day of Buddha’s Birthday, people head to the temples, where
there are festivities all day long.
Most Buddhist temples in Korea are located in the mountains
because, although Buddhism had flourished on the peninsula since
its introduction in the 4th century, it was replaced with
Confucianism during the Chosun Dynasty. No longer permitted to
worship in public, Buddhist monks were forced into the remote
hills.
Now, about half of South Korea’s population claims to be Buddhist.
Weekends are often spent as a combo hike in the mountains—which
Koreans love, as it is a great get-away from the bustle and noise
of the cities—and a visit to the temple.
So, on this special day, the paths leading to the temples bustle
with Buddhists and non-Buddhists out to enjoy the day as well as
vendors selling all the favorite snacks, like boiled silkworms and
traditional Korean rice cakes. Children run around gaily with
their mini-lotus lanterns, families picnic along the riverside and
everyone enjoys the fine weather.
 The
Korean spring brings the hills alive with new green leaves and the
colorful lanterns add to the natural colors of the season—the
reds, pinks and purples of azaleas and the gentle mauve of lilacs
and wisterias.
Throughout the day, monks chant as elegantly dressed women place
offerings of food before the great mural of Buddha, brought out
especially for this day of celebrations. Devotees bow 108 times
before their deity and bathe the baby Buddha with small ladles of
water and a prayer. More prayers are written on small slips of
paper and hung from the lanterns for good fortune.
If you get hungry from the hike up the steep hills to the temples
and boiled silk worms don’t satisfy your appetite, why not try
some traditional temple fare? On Buddha’s Birthday, most temples
offer a modest meal for the visitors, usually a bowl of bibimbap,
mixed mountain vegetables and rice—vegetarian, of course, in the
Buddhist spirit of non-killing.
Which temple should you visit on Buddha’s Birthday? Well, there
are almost 2,000 temples in South Korea so making this decision
isn’t easy. I suppose it depends on where you are or want to be.
Each temple has its own unique feeling. Some seem mysterious,
whereas others emanate purity. Still, others are wise and learned
while some are simply quiet and peaceful. Even with hundreds of
people milling around these impressions are deeply felt.
At a temple named Tongdo-sa, I was looking for my companions when
I saw a monk crouching down to speak to a young child. Their
conversation was out of earshot, but their exchange was gentle and
sweet. From where I stood they seemed so calm. It was as if they
were in a time bubble, separated from the din of the crowds. I was
entranced by this moment of loving-kindness.
 Back
at Bulguk-sa, night was falling and the paths were illuminated by
the flickering light of the lanterns. Gentle colors glowed in the
peaceful evening. We followed the sound of the great bell being
rung, calling to all who have become decadent to be lead through
wisdom to liberation.
As we entered the courtyard, a line was being formed and someone
handed me a lantern on a stick. I joined the line and circled the
great temple three times before leaving to catch my train.
Despite the fullness of the celebration, I never want to leave the
temple on this day. But then I remember that there’s always next
year.
When:
Buddha’s Birthday is held on the eighth day of the fourth lunar
month, which usually lands near the end of April or the beginning
of May.
An excellent source of information on Korean Buddhism, including
information on temples in Korea, can be found at:
http://www.buddhapia.com/eng/
Getting Around:
Traveling within Korea is relatively convenient and cheap. There
is an excellent train system and busses that go everywhere. Most
trips usually combine train and bus travel. You can also fly to
most major cities.
Seoul Metropolitan Subway:
http://www.seoulsubway.co.kr/
Korail:
http://app.korail.go.kr/ROOT/main-top.top?lang=eng
© Erin K. Melvin, 2004
|
|
|
|
Read More
Articles From Around the World
|
|
|
|
